Tag Archives: okinawa

My Hapa Story

5 Aug

Last week our gamelan ensemble from the Indonesian Embassy in Washington, D.C., performed a wayang kulit (shadow puppet play) with guest artists from Java. After our first rehearsal together, their director—realizing I couldn’t converse with him in Bahasa—asked me where I am from.

“Philippines,” my director answered for me.

“No!” I argued, surprising both of them and myself. “I’m from California!”

I’ve never really identified as Filipino, even though it’s half my blood. I’ve never identified with the quarter of English or the eighth of Irish. Maybe I accidentally embraced my eighth of mystery ethnicity.

I’ve never felt strongly like an American. I didn’t feel like a Sacramentan until I moved to Los Angeles, and I didn’t feel like a Californian until I moved to the East Coast. Davis was the only place where I truly felt like a member of a community, and even then I knew I couldn’t stay in such a small town.

My mom with me (the baby) and my brother Allan, I think on Maui, 1986
My mom felt the same way. Full-blooded Filipino but a dual citizen, born in the Philippines on an American military base, raised back and forth between Okinawa and all over the United States, drawn alternately to the Bay Area and Tokyo, she told me once that she never felt like she belonged to any one place. As an army brat, it was very weird for her to live in Sacramento—in just one house, no less—continuously for 24 years.

As a result of my mom’s immigrant identity crisis, I know little of Filipino culture. Since her parents wanted to raise Americans, didn’t teach the kids Tagalog or their respective dialects, my generation is left with only a few traditional recipes, the word for fart (utot), and a giant fork and spoon in the kitchen.

Instead, my mom filled our house and her childhood anecdotes with pieces of Japanese and especially Okinawan culture. I’ve been far more interested in learning about and visiting Okinawa than I have ever been in the Philippines.

Working at the Smithsonian Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage, where we celebrate the diversity of cultures in the world and help communities sustain their traditions and assert their cultural identities, I think about this issue a lot—how I don’t really do these things for myself.

But maybe through learning Okinawan music, adopting Indonesian culture through playing gamelan, and immersing myself in Peruvian or Kenyan or Chinese cultures at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival, I at least carry on my mom’s identity as a cultural wanderer.

This post is a submission for the Smithsonian Asian Pacific American Center’s #myhapastory project.


Songs of Okinawa

31 Mar

elisa with shinobu matsuda
This never ending winter has been punctuated by a few amazing musical experiences, and at the top of that list is a free concert at the Freer Gallery of Art last month, Songs of Okinawa featuring The Ryukyuans.

The four musicians played traditional folk songs from their native Ryukyu Islands (Okinawa, Yaeyama and Miyako) on the standard sanshin fiddle and shima-daiko drums, plus original songs adding acoustic guitar.

Every song seemed so familiar, brought me right back to adventuring in Okinawa with my family, brought a tear to my eye!

The one woman in the group, Shinobu Matsuda, performed a few songs alone with only drum accompaniment. Each one was captivating. Her sanshin (above) has been in her family for over 100 years, passed down from her grandfather to father to her, and she introduced this “pop” song as her father’s favorite:

“Moashibi Chijuya” (as you can hear, she’s a badass)

They did a song I featured once before, when I complained I couldn’t translate the lyrics. Luckily singer Isamu Shimoji prefaced with an explanation: “I love you, I need you, I want you/ Hold me tight/ Love. Very, very simple song.”

“Kanayo / Amakaa”

They closed with a contemporary song that got everyone on their feet dancing and some finger-whistling along. Isamu began saying the title translates to “Summer Solstice, Southerly Wind.” “I don’t know why.” (Haha, and I’m just now noticing that he’s the composer).

“Kaa chi pai” (cut off due to dead battery)

If you want to read more about the concert and some history of Okinawa and its folk music, I wrote a short article for the Smithsonian Folklife Festival blog.

oki yo! 沖縄よ!The Album

11 Feb

jojo and elisa in okinawaFour years ago today I got up at like 5 a.m. and flew to Okinawa, Japan. (I was pretty sure I remembered the date, but I double-checked my Google Calendar, and sure enough I had February 11, 2010, labeled “HOLY SHIT.”)

Our 12-week trip was part vacation with my family, part English-teaching internship with my cousin, and part musical traditions study in an oceanic cultural crossroads. It’s the reason I bought a portable recorder, the place I started recording live music and found sounds. It was the greatest adventure I’ve ever had, and it opened my heart to ethnomusicological research. You can read all about it on our travel/music blog: oki yo!

It took me over a year to synthesize all my recordings, photos and stories into one compilation album, which was my goal all along. After many hours drudging through audio content and getting frustrated at Kinko’s, I had this neat little CD package, an oki yo! time capsule in four chapters: traditional concerts, private performances, adventures, and originals.

Each of these songs has a story on oki yo! if you want to search around or in the liner notes if you want to order the album!

DC Summer Mixtape: Side 1

2 Sep

ocean city sunset

This summer has been a strange and exciting one: moving to a new city, navigating new streets on a new bike, meeting new friends at a new job, living 3,000 miles from almost everyone I love.

This first half of the mixtape is the strange, nostalgic, mellow, melancholy side.

  1. Pregnant – Elisa (Your Song)
  2. Stephen Steinbrink – The Way It Is
  3. Dragging an Ox Through Water – Shima Uta
  4. Poppet – Tunnel Vision
  5. Elvis Presley – Blue Moon
  6. Dimples – Boundless Love
  7. Norwegian Arms – Jitterbug
  8. Ever Ending Kicks – Outside Again
  9. Dark Dark Dark – Daydreaming
  10. Kepi Ghoulie – Stormy Weather

Hear Side 2, too.

LISTENING NOTES: Continue reading

Exploring World Music

4 Aug

teruya, okinawa
For my internship at Smithsonian Folkways, I’ve been going through our existing themed playlists, adding songs of my choice from our catalog, and publishing them to Songza, a free music streaming service. Basically, I’m going through the same process of prepping my radio show, except now it’s my job!

Here’s a few of the playlists I made through the Folkways account:

I also just released my first personal playlist, Okinawa Island Time, featuring songs from and inspired by Japan’s southernmost island. I had to read through my whole oki yo! blog to remember artists, titles and place names.

Songza puts the tracks in random order, so in case you don’t get to Shoukichi Kina’s “Haisai Ojisan,” my favorite and one of the most popular Okinawan pop songs, here’s a non-video:


Ridiculous lyrics translated:

Continue reading

Drunk Driving in Edogawa

11 Dec

When my cousin Jojo and I traveled to Okinawa together in 2010, we were both outsiders. Everything we explored was new to both of us. We both fumbled with the Japanese language and got lost.

But when I visited Jojo in Tokyo this summer, where he had been living and going to school for a year, he became my tour guide. He showed me some of the best food shops, cooked me the best meal of the trip, translated for me and navigated me through the subways and trains.

He also led me to this cute park along a tributary of the Arakawa River in the Edogawa district. Just like the old days, he brought a guitar; I brought a camera and a recorder. We played frisbee until the wind got the best of us, then cooled down in this pond to film a little Blogothèque-style takeaway show music video.

[youtube http://youtu.be/Q-f8Pu4y9JE]
Continue reading

International Cutie Pies

21 Oct

Sigrunn at Nakanishi elementary school

Now that I have access to real video-editing software, I finally compiled all these random bits and pieces of footage from Okinawa into a music video for Moe Meguro, my cousin Jojo’s band inspired by our trip.

It’s pretty messy, shot on four different cameras by four people: mostly me, plus Jojo, my brother Allan and our pal Sigrunn (the cutie pie in the cell phone).